I'm working on it... :-)
One is not necessarily better than the other, as long as you are buying a high quality food (see below). In general, it is much less expensive to feed dry food, especially to a large breed dog. Realize, too, that with canned food, you are largely paying for water (which is generally the first or second ingredient on the label). Some people maintain that dry food is better at keeping teeth clean, but this has not really been shown to be true especially since many dogs don’t chew their food at all! (Tooth brushing is the best way to keep his teeth clean.) If your young puppy is having trouble eating hard kibble, you don’t necessarily need to feed canned food. You can soften the dry food in warm water for 10-20 minutes before feeding, gradually doing this less and less until his adult teeth come in. Most dogs prefer canned food to dry food, so if you are offering both you may find that the dry food is rejected. It is probably better to mix them thoroughly. You can inadvertently teach your dog to be a picky eater by assuming he doesn’t like the dry food and offering more canned food instead. Since dogs really like canned food, my preference is to feed dry for the basic meal, and save canned for training treats, stuffing in Kongs, giving medicines, etc.
Good dog foods have several characteristics in common. Sadly, most of the commercial dog foods carried by grocery stores, pet food chains, and even many veterinarians do not share these characteristics. You have to scrutinize dog food ingredient lists as carefully as you do the labels of your own foods.
Protein: The protein in dog food should come from a high-quality, identified animal source. The animal should be identified by species, i.e. "chicken" rather than “poultry”, and “lamb” or “beef”, never “meat” or “animal”. The animal proteins should appear in the first few ingredients on the list and thus comprise the bulk of the food by weight. It may be whole (e.g. “chicken”) or a dehydrated form (“chicken meal”), but never “by-products”. Whole meats seem the best, but they contain lots of water as well as protein and fat, so do not actually provide as much nutrition by weight as meat meals. On the other hand, meat meals may contain other parts of the animal such as ground bone and organ meats. These are not necessarily bad things, but it makes it difficult to compare one manufacturer’s “chicken meal” to another’s. Most quality dog foods will contain both a whole meat source and a meat meal within the first 2-3 ingredients. The food should not rely on a vegetable protein source such as soy (which many dogs do not tolerate well anyway).
Fat: Fats should also be identified by species, i.e. “chicken fat”, never “animal fat”. The food does not necessarily need to contain a separate source of fat, since the fat is included in the whole meat or meat meal. If a fat is included, it should be pretty far down in the ingredient list. Fats should be preserved with a natural preservative (“vitamin E” or “mixed tocopherols”).
Carbohydrates: Dogs do not actually require carbohydrates, although they can get energy and other nutrients from them. Dry dog foods need to contain a grain to achieve the consistency necessary for processing; canned foods do not necessarily have to contain any grains at all. Many dogs have difficulty digesting or allergy to some grains. The biggest culprits for grain allergy in dogs are corn and wheat. Some of the more well tolerated grains include brown rice, oats, barley, millet, and flax. Don’t be fooled by the product’s name - a "chicken and rice” dog food can contain lots of corn besides. Other vegetables and/or fruits (e.g. sweet potatoes, peas, carrots, apples, blueberries) can be used and have valuable nutrients. It is best if whole grains and vegetables are used, i.e. “whole grain brown rice” and “whole rolled oats”, not “rice flour”, “brewer’s rice”, “corn meal”, etc. The grain should never be the first ingredient on the list!
Artificial colors, flavors, preservatives: None should ever be included. Only natural preservatives (“vitamin E” or “mixed tocopherols”, not BHA/BHT) should be used. No sweeteners (corn syrup, beet pulp, etc.) or salt should be added.
Vitamins and minerals: Bringing up the rear of the ingredient list on all dog foods, canned or dry, is a long list of scary sounding “chemicals”. These are vitamin and mineral supplements which are necessary because of the loss of these nutrients during processing. It’s nice when the manufacturer lists them separately so you know what you are looking at, but you don’t need to be scared off by these necessary ingredients.
Guaranteed analysis: All dog foods have to list at a minimum a “guaranteed analysis” of the amount of moisture, protein, fat, and fiber in the food. Quality dog foods often list many more nutrients in the guaranteed analysis. The amount of protein and fat you should look for depends on your dog’s age, weight, physical activity level, and overall health, so consult your vet for guidance. Foods should have also passed an AAFCO feeding trial.
Here are a few examples for dry dog foods (first twelve ingredients only). Compare your dog food’s ingredients and see which lists it looks more like:
| Very Bad | Bad | Very Good | Very Good | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Ground Yellow Corn | Chicken | Turkey | Chicken |
| 2 | Meat Meal/Meat & Bone Meal | Brewer's Rice | Chicken | Turkey |
| 3 | Corn Gluten Meal | Rice Flour | Chicken Meal | Chicken Meal |
| 4 | Chicken Byproduct Meal | Corn Meal | Ground Barley | Turkey Meal |
| 5 | Animal Fat | Soybean Meal | Ground Brown Rice | Ground Brown Rice |
| 6 | BHA/BHT | Sorghum | Potatoes | Ground White Rice |
| 7 | Wheat Mill Run/Middlings | Chicken Byproduct Meal | Natural Flavors | Oatmeal/Rolled Oats |
| 8 | Natural Poultry Flavor | Animal Fat | Ground White Rice | Potatoes |
| 9 | Rice | Vegetable Oil | Chicken Fat | Pearled Barley |
| 10 | Salt | Chicken Liver Flavor | Herring | Ground Millet |
| 11 | Caramel Color | Dried Beet Pulp | Apples | Chicken Fat |
| 12 | Whole Wheat Flour | Dried Egg Product | Carrots | Duck |
No one brand of food is right for every dog. Dogs have differing dietary needs depending on their age, breed, activity level, reproductive status, and health. Some dogs can tolerate only certain protein sources. Some dogs are allergic to certain types of grain or cannot tolerate any grains at all. Many dogs can have adverse reactions to artificial ingredients and preservatives. Review the characteristics of good dog foods and bad vs. good ingredient lists above to help you decide if your food is really the best for your dog.
To help you in your selection, you can consult a magazine called The Whole Dog Journal, which does annual reviews of dry and canned dog foods as well as treats and other feeding choices. There are copies of both the dry and canned food reviews available for you to look at in the training room, or you can order your own copies by going to http://www.whole-dog-journal.com, click on ‘Back Articles’ and search for ‘Food Reviews, Commercial’. Another tool you can use is to go to http://naturapet.com and click on the ‘Compare Dog Foods’ link, which allows you to compare the ingredient lists of a wide variety of dog foods.
Fortunately, quality dog foods are becoming more common. Many of the brands listed in The Whole Dog Journal review are available over the internet or from private distributors. A few of the choices that are more widely available and stores where I have seen them are listed below. My favorites are in bold (although that still doesn't necessarily make them best for your dog).
| Retailer | Brands Carried |
|---|---|
| Bark (Rte. 108, Clarksville) |
Carries a wide variety of natural foods, including: -California Natural -Innova -VeRUS Any choice from this store would likely meet the criteria. |
| Companions Country Store (Sykesville) |
-Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover’s Soul |
| Country Pet Stop (Georgia Ave., Brookeville) |
-Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover’s Soul |
| Pet Loft (Mt. Airy) |
-Chicken Soup for the Pet Lover’s Soul |
| PetSmart (various locations) |
-Blue Buffalo -Nutro Natural Choice ULTRAa -Royal Canin Natural Blenda |
| Petco (various locations) |
-Natural Balance Ultra Premium -Nutro Natural Choice ULTRAa -Old Mother Hubbard / Wellness -Royal Canin Natural Blenda |
| Pet Valu (Olney Town Center) |
-Eagle Pack Holistic Select -Merrick -Natural Balance Ultra Premium -Newman’s Own Organics -Performatrin ULTRAa -Solid Gold Has a fairly wide selection of other natural foods. |
| Pro Pet (Kensington) |
Carries a wide variety of natural foods, including: -California Natural -Canidae -Innova Also carries frozen raw diet. Any choice from this store would probably meet the criteria. |
First of all, evaluate the ingredient list of the food you are feeding against the criteria above. If it does not meet these standards, it is probably not the best food for your dog. You may not necessarily have to switch manufacturers; many commercial dog food companies make several “grades” of dog food and your brand may have another formulation that does meet the criteria. However, don’t assume that just because a manufacturer calls a food “Premium” or “Ultra” that it truly is the quality you require. Also don't assume that foods called "Natural" are necessarily high quality - corn meal is "natural" but that doesn't mean your dog should be eating it.
Secondly, evaluate your dog’s overall condition. Is his weight correct? Age- and breed- appropriate energy level? No frequent health problems, ear infections, allergies? Eyes are clear and bright, coat is supple, skin is clear, teeth are clean, dog doesn’t smell any doggier than usual? If not, consult your vet first and then consider changing his food.
Thirdly, evaluate his skin and coat carefully. The most common clues to a food allergy or a food that doesn’t meet your dog’s needs are skin and coat problems. Dry or flaking skin, red or scaly areas, patchy coat, frequent scratching, chewing paws and tail, off -odor to the coat, dry or brittle hair, and even goopy eyes and frequent ear infections can all be symptoms of poor nutrition or food allergy. First take a trip to the vet to rule out other possible causes, then re-evaluate what you are feeding him.
Finally, evaluate his stools. A lower quality food results in larger and more frequent stools. It may also result in excess gas! Young puppies typically have four bowel movements per day (3-5 is still normal); adult dogs typically have two (1-3 is still normal ). Stools should be firm and well formed. More frequent stools, large stool volume, loose stools, or extremely odiferous stools may mean that the dog is getting too much food, not utilizing the food he is getting, or it doesn’t agree with him.
Although you can use what is recommended by the dog food manufacturer as a guideline, you will almost certainly have to adjust the amount for your dog. The best measures are how your dog looks and his stools.
Run your hand over your dog’s ribcage. You should be able to feel the individual ribs beneath your fingers. If you can’t really feel them individually, then he is eating too much. On the other hand, if you can see his ribs when he is standing relaxed (not stretched out or running), then he probably could use a little more.
Look at your dog from above. He should have a clear “tuck” between his rib cage and his hindquarters - an “hourglass” profile when seen from above. If his sides are straight from ribs to hindquarters, he is overweight. Now look at him from the side. His belly should tuck up behind his rib cage to his groin. If his belly is level with his rib cage, he is overweight.
Finally, evaluate his stools. Young puppies typically have four bowel movements per day (3-5 is still normal); adult dogs typically have two (1-3 is still normal). Stools should be firm and well formed. More frequent stools, large stool volume, loose stools, or extremely odiferous stools may mean that the dog is getting too much food, not utilizing the food he is getting, or it doesn’t agree with him. Infrequent, small, hard, or chalky stools may mean that the dog is not getting enough food.
Note that puppies eat increasing amounts until they are approximately 7-8 months old. Their growth slows radically at this point and the amount of food that they need will plateau and in many cases will begin to decrease. If you notice your puppy getting chunky at this age, you need to reduce his intake and/or switch him from puppy to adult dog food. It would be very typical for a growing Labrador puppy to eat 5 or 6 cups per day at 6 months of age, but only need 2-3 cups per day to maintain appropriate weight as an adult!
Young puppies are usually fed three times per day. I typically wean a puppy off of the mid-day meal starting around 5 months of age, by gradually moving the lunch portion to breakfast and dinner over the course of about 2 weeks. You could do this sooner if your schedule is not amenable to feeding a puppy lunch, but pups younger than about 12 weeks really should have three meals. Most adult dogs do best being fed twice per day. If your adult dog seems to really prefer to eat at just one time (e.g., he ignores his breakfast and only eats at dinner time), it is ok to feed once per day. However, you should consider whether perhaps you are feeding him too much, so that he is not really hungry when he ought to be. Also, it is thought that for dogs prone to bloat, feeding smaller, more frequent meals (3 or 4 times per day) may be better than one or two large meals.
One thing you should not do is “free-feed” your puppy or dog - that is, leave the food out all the time for him to eat when he feels like it. This is a good way to encourage picky eating and overeating. Free feeding can derail your housetraining efforts - what goes in on schedule comes out on schedule, but if the dog is eating at all times of day and night he will also be pooping at unpredictable times. Free feeding is detrimental to all of your other training efforts as well. Why on earth should your dog bother to come when called for a measly piece of biscuit when he can eat as much as he wants whenever he wants?
Some breeders of toy dogs will insist that toy breeds must have food available all of the time. It is true that a few individuals of toy breeds can suffer from hypoglycemia and need more frequent feeding. However, this is the exception rather than the rule. It is also a condition that your veterinarian needs to diagnose! Ask your vet for confirmation and guidance before assuming that your toy dog must be free fed. You may be able to meet his needs by giving him frequent small meals (read: training sessions!) throughout the day. If your dog is just not interested in his food or gains weight poorly, free feeding is rarely a solution to this problem. Look for an underlying health issue, excessive stress in his life, and consider changing his food to a better quality diet.
Raw diets are a subject of great controversy. Proponents swear by them and say that their dogs have never been healthier, had better skin and coat, or cleaner teeth or ears. Detractors are equally emphatic that feeding raw food to a dog is downright dangerous because of risks of bacterial infections like salmonella or e. coli. I have seen both results - dogs who really do look positively terrific on a raw diet and dogs who did indeed get very sick from salmonella. If you are considering a raw (or home-cooked) diet for your dog, I think that there are three main factors to consider:
1. Educate yourself thoroughly first. Learn about the benefits and risks of these types of diets and decide whether you think the benefits outweigh the risks. Several resources are listed below:
2. Make sure that your veterinarian supports your feeding choice. If your vet does not, then you have two choices: change your feeding practices or find a veterinarian who supports and can give you guidance while feeding a raw or home-cooked diet. Many holistic veterinary practitioners are supportive of raw and home-cooked diets; for help finding a holistic veterinarian consult http://www.ahvma.org.
3. Make sure that your chosen diet meets your dog’s nutritional needs. You need to be sure that your diet has a proper balance of protein, fat, and carbohydrate calories, provides all of the essential amino acids, and contains all of the necessary vitamins and minerals in the proper ratio. This usually requires supplementation and a pretty varied diet. It is not as simple as throwing some chicken and rice in a bowl. You will need guidance from your vet and experts in pet nutrition.
©2002-2005, See Spot Sit, LLC
rev. 14 Feb. 2006